How to Replace the Bottom Garage Door Hinge?

Diagnostic Overview

The primary reason for replacing a bottom garage door hinge is often due to cables coming off the drums, resulting in a crooked door. This misalignment can bend the tabs where the bottom roller slides, making them susceptible to breakage. In most cases, technicians can bend the tabs back into place; however, if the damage is severe, replacement is necessary. Additionally, if the stud that the cables wrap around becomes damaged, it can lead to ongoing issues.

Cost and Difficulty Level

Estimated Costs

Replacing a bottom garage door hinge typically costs between $20 to $50.

Assessing Difficulty

The process of replacing this hinge can be challenging and is classified as difficult.

Time Commitment

Expect the repair to take between 30 to 60 minutes.

Tools Required

To successfully complete this repair, gather the following tools:

  • A 3/8 or 7/16 wrench or socket
  • An impact drill (recommended but not necessary)
  • A pair of 12- to 16-inch winding bars
  • A ladder for reaching elevated components

Important Safety Warning

Caution: Torsion Springs

It’s crucial to understand that working with torsion springs can be extremely dangerous and is not recommended for inexperienced individuals. If you choose to proceed, have adequate knowledge of how to safely handle torsion springs.

Option 1: Replacing with the Door in the Up Position

Step 1: Open the Garage Door

Begin by fully raising your garage door. If you have an automatic opener, simply activate it to keep the door steady during repairs. If not, enlist the help of someone to hold the door in place, as maintaining the up position is vital for safety.

Step 2: Maintain Cable Tension

With the garage door fully open, there will be minimal tension on the springs. To prevent the cable from losing tension and becoming a hassle, use vise grips to clamp it lightly. Do not clamp too tightly, as this may distort the cable.

Step 3: Remove the Bottom Hinge

Carefully unscrew or unfasten the bottom hinge. If your garage door is wooden, check for nails holding the hinge in place and remove them. Once detached, take out the roller and cable.

Step 4: Install the New Hinge

Attach the new hinge by first connecting the cable to the metal stud. Then, reinstall the roller into the new hinge. Secure the hinge back onto the door using the original screw holes to ensure proper function.

Option 2: Replacing the Hinge by Locking Down the Torsion Springs

Step 1: Set Up for Maintenance

Ensure the garage door is closed, then disable the opener. Pull the emergency release cord to disconnect it, and unplug the opener for added safety against accidental activation.

Step 2: Locking the Torsion Springs

Use winding bars to lock down the torsion springs. Slide the first bar into a winding slot and lift the spring enough to insert the second bar, allowing you to lock the spring in place.

Step 3: Remove the Bottom Hinge

Attach vice grips to the cable to maintain tension, then unscrew the bottom hinge. If necessary, remove the hinge just above it for easier access. Detach the roller and cable from the old hinge.

Step 4: Reattach and Adjust

After placing the roller and cable onto the new hinge, return it to the exact original position. Reinstall any screws or bolts securely.

Final Steps: Testing Your Repair

Re-engage the Torsion Springs

Before re-engaging the springs, adjust the cable drums to ensure tension is evenly distributed across both sides of the door. This is important for proper functioning.

Test the Garage Door

Manually test the garage door for smooth operation before reconnecting any power. Once confirmed functional, operate it using the opener. If issues arise, it may be necessary to consult a technician for further assessment.

By following these detailed steps and safety precautions, replacing a bottom garage door hinge becomes a manageable task, ensuring your garage door operates smoothly and reliably once again.

Frequently Asked Questions

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We receive many calls involving the safety eyes preventing the garage door from closing due to the safety eyes malfunctioning or simply being out of alignment. If your garage door opens fine, but will not close using the wall console, then this could be a safety eye issue. If the opener light flashes and/or the motor makes a clicking sound, this is a warning that you have a safety eye issue. You can begin by looking at the safety eyes themselves. You should see a steady light on both of the safety eyes. If one of the lights is flashing then you may just need to simply align the eyes properly. This is done by physically moving/adjusting the safety eyes until you have both safety eyes with a solid light showing.

If both safety eyes are showing a solid light, then you may have malfunctioning safety eyes.

A simple test is to press and hold the wall console to close the door. If the garage door closes while holding the wall console button, then you probably have a safety eye issue. 

We offer a full line of commercial garage door openers to fit the needs of the customer. For smaller commercial sectional garage doors we recommend using the Liftmaster 8900W these operators are rated for 14 feet maximum height and 300lbs total weight. For rolling steel doors we recommend the 8950W for doors up to 12 feet maximum height and maximum weight of 850lbs.

For large sectional commercial doors we recommend the Liftmaster J or H. These are equipped with MyQ for automated opener control and are equipped with a soft start/stop feature.

The Liftmaster J, jackshaft opener is available in ⅓, ½, ¾ and 1 horse power. The horse power needed is based on the total square footage of the sectional door it will be installed on.

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